Braided pork loin We first tried this in Gyula in Hungary. The pork loin is split into three 'tails'; marinaded with a mixture of spices and yogurt; then braided with strips of air-dried ham. It can be fried, grilled or (as here) cooked on the barbecue.

Years ago, we came to the conclusion that it is often worth buying a cook-book for just one recipe. A good recipe, that is: one that we use repeatedly, or that we enjoy particularly, even if we don't make it all that often. This is why we have at least a couple of hundred cook-books, some going back well over 100 years.

Something else we think is important is “cookery for grown-ups”. If you actually like cooking, and know what you're doing, the chances are that you can modify most recipes quite easily. If you're missing one of the ingredients, you can decide what to use as a substitute, or whether it's better to leave it until you can get what you need. With few exceptions (possibly in baking, for example), you should laugh out loud at recipes that enjoin you never to mix imperial and metric measures: there are rarely even 10% variations between the two. Often, you can double or halve the quantities of many of the ingredients, according to taste and availability.

Some recipes are our own heavily adapted versions of recipes from other books. Others are “reverse engineered” from things we've eaten in restaurants or elsewhere. Yet others are devised from scratch, such as “fishy noodle” from the time we bought 2 kg of short-dated trout eggs (as 20x 100g pots) for £20.

So: this is cookery for grown-ups. See if you can find one good recipe. If you can't, see if you can make up something for yourself on the basis of our ideas.

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